07.08.2018: At sea to the north


We leave Qaqortog early Friday morning with good memories and new friends. We have decided to take advantage of the good weather and head north. This means taking the cities Nuuk and Sisimiut off our travel agenda. This is unfortunate but we want to reach the high north, arrive in the ice and to the Arctic Ocean.

Due to our new restrictive schedule, we have already made up for two weeks. This means more days at sea but this is OK with us. We have all found our sea legs. On watch, mess duty, baking bread, tidying up – everything is going its usual way. In our spare time we read, learn Greenlandic and play cards.

Everyone is on deck when a whale comes into view. Fulmars accompany us and once in a while a curious seal pops up beside the ship. The ship’s cook spoils us with delicious fish soup. We were lucky – when sailing from Qarqortoq we were able to catch a few cod. There is a rumor on board that five fish were caught on one hook at the same time. Who knows… but it was really delicious.

On such long distances at sea, everything that happens depends on the weather: Rain, waves, fog, stiff breezes and calms - we have had everything so far. People from Greenland we have spoken to tell us that this summer is unusually cold. We always have around 5-9 degrees. These are temperatures those at home in Germany would wish for. We find the news we are getting from Germany very disturbing – tons of dead fish, perished swans, emergency slaughtering, farmers who might lose their livelihood and power plants which have to shut down because there is not enough cooling water. Many people will once again lose their lives due to this heat wave. Global warming has turned into an intense global heating – climate change has become a significant reality.

Just what affect this year has had on Greenland, we can’t say as guests here and leave the analysis to meteorologists. One thing we can observe is however unusual. The constant low pressure area which lies over Greenland at the moment is typical for the months of September and October. Arved and Brigitta tell us that until now they have never had rain in Greenland in the summer. At the moment it is raining constantly. Locals tell us that they are worried about the strong storms and the dangerous ice drifts at unusual times. The winters are too warm and the summers are too cold. It is obvious that something is changing here in this corner of the world.

Early this morning we arrived on Disko Island in the city of Qeqertarsuaq. We plan only a short stop as we want to get north in good time. We want to journey as far as possible on this expedition – just how far we will get only Neptune knows. And hopefully the weather station, which we would like, at this point, to thank very much for providing us with the latest weather data. The forecasts for Greenland are very good and we can always depend on the data sent to us.

In the next few weeks there are many fascinating tasks awaiting us. We plan to survey glaciers, collect plastics and take underwater shots with a hydrophone. We will report.



Sponsoren, Förderer & Partner


Friday, 1. June 2018