In the warm light of the evening sun, we sail into the small harbour of Sörland, the main town on the island of Väröy in the south of Lofoten. Almost 700 people live here, most of whom work in the fishing industry. It brings back memories for us. We've been here before. 11 years ago. In winter! Back then, we sailed in the footsteps of the writer Johann Bojer. The Norwegian wrote the book "The last of the Vikings" in 1921. A novel about the struggle for survival of the Lofoten fishermen, who fished in open boats for skrei, the highly sought-after cod from the Barents Sea, which comes to the Lofoten Islands to spawn in the winter months. Arved researched there in 2013 together with Peter Sandmeyer for the book "Polarlicht in den Segeln". We also produced a documentary about the work of the Lofoten fishermen and I made radio recordings for the NDR maritime programme "Hamburger Hafenkonzert".

So now we are back on location. We immediately think of the Bensvik family. Fishermen from Sörland, three generations of whom went to sea back then. Grandfather Arne, his son Kent and grandson Tommy fished for cod and produced stockfish, which they exported all over the world. Extremely likeable Norwegians with whom we had long, fascinating conversations. What might you have become 11 years later?

We set off on an evening walk in search of it. Brigitte, Uli (who was also on board in 2013), Peter and I. We quickly spot a building labelled "Bensvik Brygge", but don't recognise it as the old house we remember. I meet an elderly angler mooring his boat at a pier. I ask him about the Bensvik family and am lucky. I get Tommy's current telephone number. He actually gets in touch and immediately remembers our meeting from 11 years ago. And the best thing is that Tommy and his crew have just returned from a long fishing trip and will be mooring at the pier in front of the renovated and extended family business "Bensvik Brygge" in a few minutes.

A short time later, there are warm hugs. Father Kent is also on board and proudly tells us that Tommy's two younger brothers have now also become fishermen. Father and three sons on a boat - the chemistry in the family seems to be right.
We arrange to meet the next morning on board the Dagmar Aaen for a quiet chat. No sooner said than done. During the return visit on our ship, we have a lively discussion about the current situation of Norwegian fishermen. In 2017, the family gave up stockfish production. It was no longer profitable. The three Bensviks used to each have their own fishing boat. These were sold - now the family has a new trawler and goes to sea together. The catch (cod, herring or mackerel, depending on the season) is sold directly to wholesalers. Stockfish is only produced in very small quantities of the highest quality for the family's own consumption.

The cordial and honest discussion comes to an end with the exchange of gifts. Arved hands over a copy of the book "Polarlicht in den Segeln" (Northern Lights in the Sails) and has prepared a stick with the TV documentary that was made after our visit in 2013 - the Bensviks are delighted. Kent and Tommy don't miss the opportunity to give us some stockfish to say goodbye. They want us to try it in the next harbour as a snack with our mooring beer...

Matze