We are travelling home. The long, sunny summer days are long gone. It's been stormy and raining since the Lofoten Islands - it's uncomfortable on deck, and the days are getting shorter with every day we travel further south.

We have to sail round Cape Stadtlandet. The Norwegian coastguard has designated the sea area as particularly dangerous. Different currents, strong winds, the Atlantic swell and an uneven undersea topography collide at the cape, creating chaotic conditions in strong winds. For years, the Norwegians have therefore been considering building a tunnel for ships through the Stadt peninsula.
On the eve of our arrival, the situation there comes to a dramatic head. A few days ago, a six-man expedition left the Faroe Islands for Norway in a replica of a Viking boat. They sail straight into the storm. The open boat capsizes in the night, five crew members manage to save themselves in a life raft, but for the sixth crew member - a young woman - all help comes too late. She dies. Her body and the capsized boat are later recovered by the coastguard.

We wait for the weather to improve. Early in the morning, the weather has calmed down and we can safely round the cape. We realise once again how close light and shadow are.

Position: 60.923563, 4.685669