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13.09.2015: Praia


Cape Verde Islands


The trade winds carry the "Dagmar Aaen" southward over long distances. With each mile further south, the heat under deck increases and the watches are grateful when a small breeze comes up after sundown. Water temperatures of about 30° heat up the bunks and with a humidity of 90% the temperatures rise to over 40° in a small place no one wants to spend more time than necessary.


A protective sun sail is hung over the deck at noon; the foresail fulfills this function over the skylight and the deck is watered daily with the discharge of cooling water from the engine. It is, however, still necessary to bake bread in consideration of the decline in supplies. The watch below deck hastily leave their bunks when Fabian turns on and heats up the oven for the dough he has prepared. But, it is worth it! As compensation for the even greater heat there is a crusty loaf of fresh bread.



Praia on Santiago


The conditions under deck on the "Dagmar Aaen" are paradox in a way. In Hermann Melville's world-famous novel Moby Dick, the main character is anxious to be "in front of the mast", which for a simple seaman means to be hired on a ship. His wish is fullfilled on the whaler "Pequod". On board the "Dagmar Aaen" it is just the opposite. Midship "behind the mast" the ship cook's activities and the sporadic presence of six crewmembers ensure high temperatures. The foredeck, on the other hand, is aired at least to a fraction by the skylight and offers room for four people at most. This number causes less noise for the people sleeping below deck when there is a watch change. These are only a few reasons why the term "in front of the mast" wins a new meaning on board this ship.


After ten days on the high seas we have a shadowy sighting, in hazy weather, of the first Cap Verde Islands. As we approach our destination Praia on the island Santiago in the daybreak of September 10th, we come to realize where this "Green Cape" gets its name from. Above the steep coastlines we can see green fields and mountains and the morning winds carry the scent of the damp earth over to us. Following a temporary docking at the fishing pier and a consultation with the harbormaster, the anchor falls in the bay of Praia.



Outboard Motor


During the night of September 13th, our dingy, which was attached on the starboard side, was unfortunately stolen. After long discussions with the local police, we got the boat back; it had been in police custody, but the outboard motor was still missing. Frauke and Justus, therefore, set out to find a replacement as quickly as possible. In the end they found an air-cooled 5 PS motor which was rather old but fulfilled its purpose and got us loudly but not all that slowly through the water.


              
Jeremias Stein