We’ve never had a welcome like this before. On the jetty in the small community of Iona on Bras d’Or Lake in Nova Scotia, a young ‘piper’ in a kilt is waiting to greet us, playing a variety of melodies with great skill on his bagpipes. The Celtic–Scottish heritage is held in high regard in Iona. We are thrilled. For the people of this community of 250 souls, our arrival seems to be the maritime highlight of the year. Posters announcing the visit of the Dagmar Aaen are displayed everywhere. On board, guests are practically coming and going in a constant stream. First to arrive is Professor Douglas Wallace from Dalhousie University in Halifax. He arranged our visit. Doug, as everyone here calls him, is an oceanographer and supports community activities wherever he can. In 2011, the sprawling Bras d’Or Lake was designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, and since then a group of dedicated residents has taken the future of the village into their own hands. With support from the authorities, the tourism agency and Doug’s help, the ‘Aros na Mara’ – the House of the Sea – was established. It is a simple building housing a small, child-friendly exhibition on the sea. The volunteer run the ‘Aros na Mara’ with the aim of bringing together the region’s culture, education and science, fostering a sense of community in the village and raising Iona’s profile as a holiday destination.

From a scientific perspective, the lake landscape is particularly interesting because fresh and salt water mix there, and in some particularly deep spots the water is so cold (–1 to +1 degrees) that prehistoric organisms were able to survive there.
Whilst Arved is engaged in one conversation after another (for example, with Tom, who, as a representative of the Mi’kmaq tribe, coordinates activities in the biosphere reserve on behalf of UNESCO), our hosts anticipate the crew’s every wish. Whether it’s a lift to the shops, a taxi to the showers at a nearby campsite or a sightseeing tour, there’s always someone on hand to offer their help. Long queues form for the open ship event on the Dagmar Aaen.
We guide more than 200 visitors around the ship in small groups. Among them are many German pensioners who have bought a plot of land in the area and spend the summer in Canada.
We spend an afternoon at the Iona Heights Inn, the village pub, where locals gather with violins, guitars, a piano and a banjo to make music together. Mika and Eberhard from our crew are also allowed to join in.
To round off our visit, Bruce Hatcher, a biologist and diving expert, invites Marie and Lukas for a dive in the lake. When the two of them return, they can’t seem to wipe the smiles off their faces.

As we say our goodbyes, lots of people are standing on the jetty, waving non-stop. Our next destination is Bridgewater on the La Have River, south-west of Halifax. That’s where the Dagmar Aaen is due to spend the winter.

Matze

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