The start of Ocean Change 2026 was a gentle one. Setting off from Kiel, the journey took us first through the North-East Canal, with overnight stops in Rendsburg and Brunsbüttel, before we sailed on from there to Heligoland. This was ideal for the crew – everyone had a chance to settle in and get used to the trip. Watch duties were allocated, the safety briefing was carried out and, finally, our doctor Sarah conducted a thorough medical briefing in Heligoland harbour. It has become a lovely tradition whenever the Dagmar Aaen visits Heligoland for the crews of the locally stationed rescue cruiser Hermann Marwede, the DGzRS and the Dagmar Aaen to invite one another for a reciprocal visit. The rescue cruiser is impressive. The rescuers, always modest, do an incredible job. During the night they were out rescuing a stricken sailor with a broken mast; first thing the next morning they had to set off on another mission. We all have the utmost respect for the work of the DGzRS in all weathers. It is funded by donations – which is why every donation is extremely welcome.

The first leg of the voyage takes us from Heligoland to the Orkney Islands in the north of Scotland. That’s around 500 nautical miles diagonally across the North Sea. The weather is capricious and changeable; the ship is pitching hard into the wind, spray is coming over the deck, and some of the crew have become a bit quiet – seasickness has reared its head. There are three watches. From midnight to 4 am is the so-called ‘dog watch’, from 4 am to 8 am is the morning watch, and from 8 am to 12 noon. Then it all starts again. Each watch consists of the watch leader and one or two other crew members. The skipper and Richard, the cook, are off watch; he regularly provides the crew with fantastic meals. He enjoys cooking vegetarian and vegan dishes – everyone loves them.

On 12 June, we arrive in Kirkwall amid persistent rain and gusty winds. We’d registered with the harbour in good time, and as we sail in, two mooring attendants are already on shore to take our lines. The first leg of our sea voyage is behind us.

The Orkney Islands are special. In conversations with the islanders, you hear time and again that they actually feel more connected to Norway than to the UK. This has historical roots and is linked to the Vikings, who once shaped life here. The Neolithic settlement of Skara Brae dates back 5,000 years. This impressive settlement is open to the public as an archaeological site. Stone circles and ancient burial sites bear witness to the early culture on the islands. Modern Orkney generates 130 per cent of its electricity requirements from renewable energy sources; the surplus is exported to the mainland. We are visited by Ian, the owner of ‘Orkney Odyssey’. Among other things, he leads and organises ‘Renewable Energy Tours’. He tells us about the tidal power stations, trials with wave power stations and other projects. The surplus electricity is to be used to run a large-scale hydrogen production facility, and the local population is fully behind the initiative – here, people want nothing to do with fossil fuels or nuclear power. New standards are being set here!